From a vantage point on the wild Wilyabrup cliffs (part of the regions accessible Cape to Cape hiking trail), Sean Blocksidge once beheld a great white shark launching out of the water below, feeding on salmon. “There’s much more to Margaret River than just wines”, said Blocksidge as he picked us up in his comfy 4WD for a day’s guided tour. By the time we finished – on those selfsame cliffs, with a view so big I swear I could see the horizon curve – we quite believed him.